The Gift of Rain

Last weekend, we landed in the Negev Desert. The Negev is a beautiful place of extremes--hot and dry in the day and cold and windy at night. We get to our starting point and begin the hike. A few hours later, we arrive at our camping site where we need to pitch tents before darkness arrives. After pitching the tent, Susy (one of the participants, begins preparations for the meal: Homemade Pizza and Chinese Stir Fry (vegetarian and Chicken options). Many hours later and with full, satisfied bellies we all try to fall asleep in the crapped quarters of the tent. My tent slept the boys, 4 of us, in a 3 person tent. Uncomfortable, Iftach (our guide), decides to sleep outside which gives all of us more room. In the middle between sleep and being lucid, we begin to hear rain drops. Not hard rain, but soft rain. Meanwhile, all of us left our stuff outside to give more room in the tents for our bodies. We were all told that the place was secure, and robbery was the last thing on our minds. Because I didn't want to get my camera, cell phone and clothes wet, I took everything inside. So did most of my tent-mates. At about 3:30 in the morning, we are awakened by Israelis who had been sleeping about 1 km from our tents. They tell us that they had been robbed by Bedouins and the we needed to check for our stuff. 3 or 4 of my group members had all their cash and valuables taken and found their bags a few feet from our tents. We were all in shock, and I was thankful to God or whatever power that be, that rain (in the desert of all places) got me to take my things into my tent; otherwise, I'd be writing this without my Canon camera or iPod!

Other than that, the next day we hiked nearly 8 hours in the blistering sun. It was a great workout, and I loved it with a passion. Can't wait to do more of it.

Here are the pictures: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2050460&id=164200005&l=526a3659d4

Out of Israel and into Sinai....

Last Sunday I took my first steps to independent travel. After struggling to find a travelling partner, I decided, with some anxiety, to go it alone.
On Sunday morning, I left for the long five-hour journey to Eilat. After arriving in Eilat, I took the bus to the Taba border where I crossed rather quickly, without hassle. Nearly 70 US later, I entered into the country (100 shekels to Israel, 70 Egyptian Pounds to Egypt) and was fortunate enough to run into a couple who were heading to a beach resort. My original plan was to stay at Basata (“Simplicity”) but they were all booked up and I would have had to schlep a tent. Instead, I decided to join them. We went to a place called “Beer Swear”, 40 km from the Taba crossing. For some interesting reason, “Beer Swear” has become an oasis for young, ‘adventurous’ Israelis looking for a good time in Sinai, but too scared to go to any of the major cities. The day basically consists of the following: wake up at 9 or 10 am, smoke hash, eat breakfast, smoke hash, sun bathe, go into the water, smoke hash, eat lunch, read a book, take a nap, go snorkeling, smoke hash, eat dinner, and smoke some more, bed. Two days of this (without smoking any hash, may I add) was more than enough for me-- and because Egypt is technically an Islamic country, alcohol is very difficult to find at these resorts. So I left feeling the need for an adventure. I took out my “Lonely Planet” and made the decision to go trek Mt. Sinai. The best way to do this is to go to Dahab, so that is what I did. I mounted the sketchy bus in the middle of the desert, passed 4 or 5 checkpoints and entered Dahab. Dahab is still considered a city for independent backpackers, so it was rather easy to find my way around. After a bit, I found a company that would take me to Mt. Sinai and back for just under 20 dollars US. I jumped on the opportunity and left at 11pm. We arrived at 1 am and started to climb. The trek is medium-hard, with many dangerous ledges. The most annoying part is having pestering Bedouins along the trail yelling “Camel”, tempting you for 60 Egyptian pounds. I am proud to say I resisted the whole way up, often saying, “No Thanks, I prefer to die”. Right before the top, my entire body was aching, a kind man (who turned out to be conveniently forget to request 70 Egyptian pounds for his services), offered me his hand. I took it grudgingly, because I was utterly exhausted. I offered him 20 pounds at the top which he refused. I told him he never told me the price, and had he told me, I would have refused. Then I took out another 10 pounds and told him to take it or leave it. You have to negotiate in Egypt or they will take you for all your worth.

After reaching the peak (it was really cold and windy), we waited for the sun to appear and made our way down. The Monastery at the bottom was a bit dull, except for the Burning Bush, which had the faithful in tears.

The next day, I awoke with the intention of finding a dive shop to certify me with a licence. I found a nice spot called “Divers Down Under”. There I met my instructor, a South African with the name Awwi (pronounced Avi). I thought he was Jewish, but turns out that his name is in Afrikaans. I learnt how to put on my gear, safety tips when in the water, how to inflate an automatic (with the bush of a button) life preserver. I also learnt how to do some safety exercises including swapping for my partner’s air and sharing air. Most importantly, I learnt how to use my lungs as buoyancy devices. When diving, it’s crucial to understand that your lungs become inflated and deflated. When you are diving with sensitive coral reef, it is vital to be aware of your surroundings and ensure that you are not close to the reef. You do this, in part, by controlling your diaphragm. The number one rule in diving is to never stop breathing. It’s not that hard to remember, but it takes some time to get used to.

The coral reef is extremely diverse and beautiful in Dahab. I didn’t have the opportunity to dive far, but from what I saw, I was in awe. I can’t wait to go back and finish my certification.
I have for some time wanted to travel on my own. I've seen friends do it and really enjoy the experience. I think you really learn a lot about yourself travelling on your own. You learn how to trust your own instincts, and be completely responsible for your own actions. I really enjoyed the freedom it provided me. I could do whatever I wanted without feeling like I was compromising my own experience for the benefit of a travel partner. It was also a great way to meet people, especially in a backpacker’s city like Dahab. I enjoyed the opportunity to be responsible for my own survival and actions. On the other hand, more than once I felt lonely, especially during my hike of Mount Sinai. Out of 7 people, 4 were couples, and 2 were friends. Best part, I only got sick once from a meat! Hah.

Travelling to an Arab country is also a unique experience. Slowly, I’ve realized the importance of separating the people from the government. I met Americans and Canadians who had travelled and lived in Libya, Syria, Iran, and Egypt. They kept telling me that the people couldn’t have been more gracious to have foreigners in their country. True, that these countries have serious questions when it comes to human rights abuses and their treatment of minorities, but it is important to appreciate this point. In the end of the day, people are people and most people want what is best for their family, namely a secure home with enough money to support their family. I can appreciate that.

Kibbutz Neot Smadar

Last week, I spent about 7 days at Kibbutz Neot Smadar. Neot Smadar is special. It takes its inspiration from the idea that people can work and live together for the good of everyone. This bond has allowed the Kibbutz endure for over 20 years. Before arriving I had many preconceived notions about the Kibbutz ---it being a quasi-cult, the awkwardness of eating in silence and the weird people I would be meeting. For the most part these stereotypes remain but I do have a respect for the idea that they espouse.

A typical day began at 5:45am, where I would groggily wake up, put on the warmest clothes I could find (the desert gets really cold at night and really hot in the day, making it nearly impossible to pack for). I would then quickly brush my teeth and sleepily walk in the dark to the mess hall. Upon arriving, I would pour myself a stiff cup of coffee and sit down with the rest of the community for a 20 minute meditation. The meditation is supposed to give you an appreciation for the new day, which it did. After meditation, we would be assigned our morning duties. I worked in different places including the kitchen, garden, winery and weeding.

At 8:30am, breakfast would be served. Fresh, organic vegetables (tomatoes, celery, carrots, lettuce, cabbage), goat cheese, two types of homemade bread (white and brown) and the best apricot jam in the world. Meals are conducted in silence, which also takes some time to get used to, especially for a new volunteer who is just starting to meet people.

After breakfast, work continues until about 12 noon, where we take a break and eat gigantic pomelos (a cross between a grape fruit and orange, but better than both of them!). At about 1pm, a chime was heard throughout the kibbutz indicated that it was time for lunch. We would pack up our stuff and head over to the dining hall. Lunch is usually some soup, or beans and lots of veggies (it's a vegetarian kibbutz with fish twice a week). After lunch, there was a kibbutz-wide meeting to determine what needed to happen in the afternoon. Sometimes I would be asked to clean, other times I would be asked to work in specialized projects, like the water pipe project. At about 5pm, we would finish working and have 2 hours to relax before dinner. Dinner would be soup, vegetables, and beans (you can see the pattern, can't you?). I became so desperate for meat, that I started to fantasize about killing the chickens on the kibbutz and roasting them on a spic. It even got to the point that got excited for fish and I hate fish.

Most of the nights I would pass out at 8pm due to pure exhaustion, which made socializing kind of an issue.

The kibbutz doesn't celebrate Shabbat in any normal way; instead, they have a dance circle where they all dress in white to choreographed music! It was an interesting transitory experience!

On Saturday I had the opportunity to go exploring. The Kibbutz is huge and has much to offer including a man-made pond where you can swim and a man-made "lake" with an island in the centre accessible my paddle boat.

Overall, the experience was a good one, although it strikes me as somewhat oxymoronic that a kibbutz which preaches sustainable practises and tries to eat locally and organically, would be located on a land that is not easily habitable and which needs to be irrigated with a lot of water just to make it habitable. Sounds pretty counterintuitive. Also the constant barrage of gunfire and bomb explosions (we were 5km from an army base) made for a strange experience. We would talk about loving our neighbours, going back to what we need in life, mainly relationships and humility, and then we would hear bombs exploding which would literally shake the trailer park homes in the area.

For pictures, see: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2049833&id=164200005&l=46903b0a1a

Brief Update

Sorry for the lack of updates. I was in the middle of a big one, and had to go to a conference this weekend. In just 5 hours, I will be getting up to go all the way to Kibbutz Neot Smadar (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neot_Smadar). It is one of the only remaining socialist-leaning Kibbutzim in the country which incorporates Buddhist principles. You are not allowed to talk during meals. Should be an interesting adventure. I will update when I get back (Friday or Saturday). Until then...

BFL aka Big Fat Leaders

Last weekend, I went on a special seminar called BFL (Building Future Leadership). I know, I know it sounds corny--I was also very sceptical. This program is touted by MASA as the best-of-the-best conference (re: cream of the crop) where future leaders come together to talk about different ways to be a leader. This is done through guest speakers, group discussion and volunteer work. BFL is a three-part seminar, the first of which focuses on leadership examples. Highlights include a typical Zionist speech by one of Israel's most senior military leaders MK Moshe Ya’alon, former IDF Chief of staff; Moty Kanias, spoke from a post-Zionist or pro Palestinian perspective. He served in one of Israel's most elite units, Sayeret Matkal. Put together, one can understand how confusing the whole conflict is. I appreciated getting a perspective I would have otherwise not heard. The most interesting time, however, was spent with four IDF soldiers currently enlisted in an elite unit known as Sayeret Duvdevan. The unit is in charge of infiltration and recognisance in the West Bank. They essentially act on intelligence reports by infiltrating covertly "hot" areas. They pride themselves on the ability to locate individual suspects without harming others along the way. One of the soldiers is also an officer (a commander), at age 22 he is in charge of 28 troops who are loyal to his every command. It's pretty amazing how fast these kids have to grow up. Another soldier was born in Israel but lived in Australia most of his life, they call people who do this "lone soldiers". I talked to him briefly about international law and whether or not his unit follows protocols such as acquiring warrants for wire tapping or using the presumption of innocence before proving a suspect’s guilt. He seemed to suggest this did not happen, and when suspects are transfered to Israel they go through a military tribunal, which of course is kept very secretive. I'd be interested in learning more about this process.

The seminar was interesting for other reasons, especially getting to network and meet other people interested in social justice work. We discussed our ideas for projects and had the opportunity to go out on Friday night. Jerusalem is surprisingly lively during Shabbat. The bars and clubs are full of patrons to the wee hours of the morning. Impressive. I'm looking forward to the next conference in 3 weeks.

On Monday, I had the distinct opportunity of hearing a Holocaust survivor speak as part of my academic course here at Tikkun Olam. She told her story of living in Poland through the worst of the Holocaust---surviving the Warsaw Ghetto (from disease to uprising), Majdanek concentration camp, Birkenau extermination camp, The March of Death. An amazing woman.

Tuesday night was absolutely crazy. We all went out for Purim and got very drunk. A street called Florentine has the action all night. Thousands of people came in costume partying the night away. Probably one of the craziest party experiences of my life!

Yesterday, I had my final interview with Amnesty Israel. I can now officially say that I am interning with them. On Monday and Tuesday I am attending a conference on the African Refugees in Israel run by the head official for refugee rights at Amnesty International in the UK. Should be a very interesting and an educational time, I look forward to updating everyone. I have been given the task of researching content for their new website. I am essentially writing the English introductory articles and finding relevant material for the refugee page. Hopefully they will like my work and I will be given a bigger, more substantial role.

This weekend I'm going to the Sea of Galilee with Tikkun Olam. We are going on hikes, visiting a winery and having a general relaxing time. Should be a lot of fun.

That's all for now, I'll try to send an update Tuesday on the progress of the conference.

Existential Threat

Note: The picture shows how my cooking skills have improving. A stir fry, classical Chinese style-- rice cooked to perfection; garlic/brocoli/chicken with soy sauce/oyster sauce/sugar; and ginger/sprouts/red pepper with sweet chilli sauce and pepper. The best stir fry I have ever made. Full points goes to my roommate and cooking mentor, Alex Goddard!

This past week I’ve been busy with lots of small things. I've settled into College For All and I’m trying to get my volunteer schedule set (with no success yet). I've emailed Amnesty Israel and will call tomorrow to see if there are volunteer opportunities. If I get no response, I will do the ARDC. I have a "test" on Monday to evaluate my level of Hebrew. I expect to be at the bottom which means I'll simply go in the easiest class. I'm fine with that...I can't expect to be fluent in 6 months.

Last weekend I went on a political seminar in Jerusalem. It was a good opportunity to meet people from all political and religious backgrounds. We talked about contentious issues in Israel like the constant tension in Israel between separation of church (err synagogue) and state. Simply listening to the complexities, made it pretty evident that this tension will always exist. People by and large want to see the Jewish fabric of Israel maintained but also (even observant Jews) see the issue of religion having such a profound influence on politics as problematic. There are countless examples in this region. Take for example, the biblical idea of Judea-Samaria. If we were to take this idea literally, the West Bank and Gaza Strip are biblical "Palestine", the land of the Jews and therefore must be maintained within contemporary Israel. However, politically this is huge impediment to any sort of peace and cannot be maintained in order to create a two-state solution. It all depends on what side of the political spectrum you fall on: do you believe in practice of realpolitic-- that peace with the Palestinians is necessary for the stability of the region and the security of Israel or do you believe that the Jewish nation (a term I have a hard time accepting) must maintain its land because after all, land for peace has never worked, Hamas would never accept Israel and more importantly, God promised this land to the Jews.

One of the more interesting speakers of the weekend talked about the difference between symbolic policy and real policy. He argued that the government (and it doesn’t matter if it is a left or right government) always makes the excuse that because Israel’s existence is being threatened by forces outside of its control, security must take precedence over anything else. Therefore, you see the government spending large amounts of capital on new, expensive weaponry for the military, increased defence budgets and new elite units being formed with little new money being put into education, health care or public housing. When compared to the rest of the world, year after year Israel is falling in all major fields including education which he finds to be very troubling. He said that because of the limited budget, Israeli politicians have become experts in symbolic policies, policies such as encouraging gender equality or equal rights between Jews and Arabs, but refuse to put money into the problem. When a change in administration occurs (which is usually every 2 years), these polities lose their status and are rarely resurrected. There is also another, more sinister problem, the military industrial complex of Israel (re: the lobbying firms dedicated to maintaining Israeli military industry and might) have a huge interest in maintaining the status quo. As long as there is an existential threat to Israel (Iran’s nuclear ambition, Hamas’ Charter, Hezbullah’s Katusha rockets, Syria’s tacit support of Hezbullah and Iran) then the increases in budget can always be legitimized.

I also met a Russian woman who works in the Department of Finance through a MASA program called Israel Government Fellows. (For purposes of full disclosure: The program is partly funding by the Menachem Begin Center which is what we classically would call a right wing organization.) It is a 10 month internship where she works directly with the Knesset and Ministries. It costs 11,000 US and includes no housing in Jerusalem but it sounds like an amazing experience.

Finally, yesterday I went to Jerusalem for the 120th Central Conference of American Rabbis. Tikkun Olam (well 3 of us) went to promote the organization and "study Torah". I bumped into one of the Senior Administrators’ at Holy Blossom and we exchanged kind words. Didn't really know me, but recognized by mother's last name. The experience was unique and not something I'd normally feel comfortable doing. We split up into small groups and talked about Jewish text from contemporary angles, most of which was said was beyond my expertise, but I still contributed what I could. I met one woman who lost her husband a few years ago, remarried a rabbi but kept her husband's last name because her husband was the last of his family (Neither they nor his grandparents or parents had any other children). She felt like it was her responsibility to pass on his name.

First Couple Days of Volunteering

Before I talk about volunteering at College For All, let me tell you a strange thing that happened to me yesterday. In the morning I had Ulpan class with my Hebrew teacher Yifat. We were learning about the days of the week by linking the creation story to it. While we were discussing the story, the subject of God came up and with it the whole issue of not being able to the write God in Hebrew (it being too holy to write down). Yifat, being a secular and defiant Jew, writes down אֱלוֹהִים Elohim (God) in the middle of the board. But instead of writing with erasable marker, she accidentally uses a PERMANENT marker. Sign from God? It spooked us all and she was quite embarrassed (see pic).

College For All was an interesting experience to the say the least. I was picked up by Abid, an Arab Israeli who is in university and teaches English. He invited me over to his home and I got to meet his brother, sister and mother. Their home is full of Muslim and Biblical iconography, including a verse in the Koran and a stain glass drawing of Abraham offering his son Isaac as a sacrifice to God. His sister married a distant relative, which I also found to be interesting, to say the least.

Upon entering the school, the kids immediately gravitated to Abid and then started laughing at me. "What's your name", I was asked hundreds of times, and each time I would patiently say, "My name is Sam. What is your name?". They would respond with their Arabic names and then quickly run off with their friends, laughing at their responses. These kids are so full of energy-- some express their energy in the form of being loud and obnoxious, others are physically aggressive. To combat this, teachers are generally much more vocal with their students than I am used to in Canada. Teachers will yell at the students to get them to quite down to the point where the more forceful the teacher yells, the more respect they will gain from the students. What a balagan (mess).

I also had a chance to venture outside the classroom and look at the English work some students had done. One work in particular struck me-- a poster board made by Grade 6 students about the Gaza conflict. It contained some alarming inaccuracies, including a reference to babies being targeted by the IDF for death. I was shocked to see such blatantly anti-Israel material in a school that is in Israel proper and funding directly by the municipality of Tel Aviv. One wonders why this could have ever been allowed as a project. How scary is it to think that these teachers don't know any better or just don't care? I thought about saying something, but I think my thoughts are best expressed here for now.

I may be doing more advanced English work with the high school class. Hopefully, I'll be of good help to them.

On Tuesday, I had an appointment at Beth Hatefutsoth with Marta, the coordinator of the Geology project. We discussed the purpose of my volunteer work and we both concluded that my help would be most needed toward the end of April and intensively in May when they get the most submissions and really need the extra help. With the extra time that I'll have over the next couple of months, I'll be trying to improve on my Hebrew.